Haute Couture: The Schiaparelli Fall-Winter 2022-2023 Collection

The fashion house returns to the runway with its latest Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2022-2023 collection.

Daniel Roseberry, creative director of the fashion house, presented the new Haute Couture collectiondisplayed on the runway at the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris. It truly showcased the ostentatiousness and the baroque’s style in agreement with simplicity.

Roseberry, who brought the house to life in this century, understands that the pressure for beauty is part of fashion and of course, it was reflected in this provocative collection:

“In recent years, however, it seems that fashion has been striving to prove that it is not nonsense. The pressure designers feel to make a statement about the current political situation, our ongoing climate disaster, inequalities between people of different races and genders, and one of war has resulted in extraordinary work, not to mention a new engagement of our industry with culture in general.”- Daniel Roseberry.

In 1938, Schiaparelli gave life to the Pagan Collection, which was born from the Renaissance frescoes of Sandro Botticelli, and the fashion house’s contemporary Creative Director used this collection from the past to inspire the new fashion delight he shows in the present.

Roseberry has taught with each of her designs that extravaganza fashion is an essential aspect of the brand and one of her hallmarks: “Tulip petals are shaped with spoons. It’s an unrealistic exercise.”

For the Fall-Winter 2022-2023 runway, Schiaparelli showed a colour palette with black as its mainstay. Then, the jet went for gold, red and ivory to make themselves known on the runway.

The textile richness of the 80’s trends was present, with some arrangements proposed by futuristic designs. The meters of satin are countless in this collection, which creates swirls and excesses amid fine tailoring and fabrics typical of Haute Couture.

Roseberry recreates the luxury of Christian Lacroix‘s 1987 debut. Some of the mature floral arrangements are inspired by designer and social icon Carolyne Roehm‘s book A Passion for Flowers, a replica of the coffee table Roseberry’s grandmother made as a child. These are amazing sewing feats when viewed up close.

“I always talk about trying to achieve that state of creative innocence—of fighting to stay close to that person who fell in love with fashion and its possibilities, of not succumbing to cynicism or world-weariness,” Roseberry said. “I hope that spirit comes through in this collection: I hope people who see it can tell what fun the team and I had made it. I hope the joy we felt, of creating things, of getting to make beautiful objects that people will always remember, is evident in every coat, dress, and accessory.” Daniel Roseberry.

Three-dimensional garments, surreal hats, embroidered jackets, exquisite corsets and sleeves in the maxi volume are the ones that mark the stop for the coming autumn winter. There Roseberry decided to open the trunk of memories, which she often does, and brought to life the designs of Elsa Schiaparelli in which she speaks to us in the language of modernity about the Victorian woman.

Moreover, the Creative Designer also revealed the collection was influenced by “the way Elsa dressed,” which entailed meticulous tailoring. Roseberry also described it as “this type of sensual body-conscious and body-obsessed eveningwear, everything structured around the bustier and the corset.”

The neckline of a black velvet jacket cut into a face’s profile and the encrusted Lesage embroidery that she relished in were modest tributes to Elsa Schiaparelli’s own Magical realist inspirations. A pair of earrings dripping bunches of golden grapes and so heavy that they had to be tied with a delicate tiara hair band brought a simple black velvet evening dress that appeared like one of Roseberry’s dramatic design sketches to life into Schiap’s zany universe.

Peace doves are being delivered to the collection in 2022.