Maria Grazia Chiuri has long explored femininity, identity and the relationship between fashion and the female body. For her latest collection at Fendi, the designer took that conversation in a distinctly sensual direction, combining sheer fabrics, lingerie-inspired pieces and body-conscious silhouettes with a strong dose of Italian glamour.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Chiuri found her muse in Raffaella Carrà, the legendary Italian singer, dancer and television personality whose fearless style made her a cultural icon.
Carrà’s influence was especially visible in the collection’s fitted silhouettes, dramatic catsuits, flared trousers and sparkling pieces. Chiuri looked to Carrà’s famous performances, including her memorable appearance with Adriano Celentano on the television program Milleluci, drawing inspiration from the energy and physicality of their choreography.
That spirit came alive on the Fendi runway.
One standout look reimagined Carrà’s signature catsuit as a sleek black jersey design with long sleeves, shoulder cutouts and silver grommet embellishments. Elsewhere, shimmering maxi dresses evoked the glamour of the 1970s, bringing a touch of disco-era extravagance to Milan Fashion Week.
But the collection was about more than retro references.
The body was everywhere. Lingerie became outerwear, with satin shorts trimmed in lace paired with coordinating triangle bras in soft teal, peach and black. Rather than hiding these traditionally intimate pieces beneath clothing, Chiuri made them the focal point of several looks.
Sheer chiffon dresses, plunging necklines and strategically placed cutouts continued the theme. Some looks revealed flashes of lace underneath, while fringed tunics and thigh-high playsuits exposed glimpses of skin and emphasized the natural shape of the body.
The sensuality was deliberate, but Chiuri’s approach went beyond simply creating provocative clothes.
The designer has spoken about beginning the collection with conversations around undergarments and the body, eventually moving toward questions of femininity and intimacy. She also referenced E. E. Cummings’ poem I Like My Body When It Is With Your, adding an emotional dimension to the collection’s exploration of physical connection.
That idea of connection appeared throughout the designs. The body was sometimes revealed and sometimes concealed, creating a constant tension between exposure and privacy. A sheer dress might reveal the silhouette beneath, while a more voluminous piece offered coverage and movement. Lingerie could be openly displayed while still carrying its intimate associations.
The official show notes described the body as central to fashion while emphasizing the emotional freedom that can emerge from that relationship. Chiuri’s collection reflects that duality, presenting the body as both strong and vulnerable.
Fendi’s craftsmanship keeps the collection firmly rooted in luxury. Delicate fabrics, intricate embellishments and precise construction give the revealing silhouettes a polished sophistication, ensuring that the clothes feel considered rather than merely provocative.
Carrà’s presence also gives the collection a distinctly Italian character. Her influence recalls an era when television, music and fashion were closely intertwined, while her confident attitude provides Chiuri with a powerful framework for exploring contemporary femininity.
Still, this is not a literal recreation of Carrà’s wardrobe. Instead, Chiuri takes the essence of her style—confidence, glamour, movement and sensuality—and translates it into a modern Fendi collection.
The result is a wardrobe that moves between lingerie, eveningwear and body-conscious tailoring with ease. Sparkling dresses sit alongside delicate undergarments, while sleek jersey pieces contrast with transparent layers and dramatic silhouettes.
For Spring/Summer 2027, Chiuri has created a collection that embraces the body without reducing it to a simple statement of sex appeal. Through Carrà’s influence and her own perspective on femininity, she explores how clothing can reveal, conceal and ultimately celebrate the person wearing it.
At Fendi, the message for the new season is clear: the body isn’t something to hide—it’s part of the fashion story.
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