Jacquemus Spring-Summer 2023 Collection

The ‘La Raphia’ collection was presented in Paris inside an airport hangar.

Held at Le Bourget, Simon Porte Jacquemus presented his Jacquemus Spring/Summer 2023 “LE RAPHIA” fashion show which was stunning! 

Amidst a hay storm, where guests created hay angels after the end of the show, models adorned looks that almost hinted at a new era for Jacquemus, a return to his roots. Models stepped out in mini shorts, swimsuits and straw hats. Earth tones prevailed in the ready-to-wear collection showing looks with natural colours and textures, his signature oversized hats and tiny handbags. In addition, womenswear saw fluffy embellishments and eye-catching hats, while menswear seemed to enter the foray in a more fun way and gender fluid, both in its design and colour. 

“It’s the end of summer. All these colours, all the dreams I saw, that I had, are going away. The smell, the beauty, Raphia’s rain sweeps everything away like in a dream… Will I see again those big hats, those flower buckles, those prints? I think so”, said the notes of the Simon Porte Jacquemus fashion show.

Models also wore oversized straw hats that sat neatly on their heads or hung from the back of their necks with the help of a black ribbon. Hats become more recognizable, with raffia being a persistent theme in the Jacquemus DNA.  

Next followed a more contemporary interpretation of the Jacquemus brand. There were baggy jeans in metallic silver paint and sheer ensembles with flower appliqués. Elsewhere, his rolled-up technique was present, along with rope-like bows that hung from short blouses and dresses and knotted around the waist.

The collection was one of her most colourful –  a theme she has been playing with more in recent years. She also introduced new prints worn alongside ruffled mini skirts and giant yellow furry tote bags paired with strappy sandals that sported the same neon sheepskin.

As with most Jacquemus collections, the attention to handcrafted details was undeniable, and SS23 fused natural materials with vivid colours and poetic silhouettes. Hand embroidered by Maison Lesage, raffia was transformed into fabric garments, developed into tailored jackets, and details were added to denim, shoes and accessories.

Accessories included oversized raffia sunflower earrings, hay hats that gave the illusion of becoming raffia, bird-style coats and short blouses that swayed as the models walked. There were polka dot pedal pushers combined with colossal white collars reminiscent of their early days and an emphasis on denim to bring things back down to earth.

SS23 also welcomed a range of “skin-tight” beachwear, effortlessly transforming from day to night through embroidered dresses, men’s tank tops and denim. 

Finally, “Le Raphia” also marked the debut of Jacquemus’ new bag, Le Bisou, a slim and curved silhouette which can be worn either on the shoulder or in hand.

Jacquemus attracted an incredible front row. Parisian it-girls, including Jeanne Damas, Adèle Exarchopoulos, Tina Kunakey and Sophie Marceau were present, as were Internet favourites like Emma Chamberlain, Iris Law and Christine Quinn. Pamela Anderson made a surprise appearance at the event, looking radiant in a white dress. From Manu Rios to Mahmood and Blackpink star Jennie, the stars looked flawless wearing the brand’s current designs.