Gucci Opens a New Creative Chapter at Milan Fashion Week

Demna’s debut runway show introduces a fresh direction for the historic Italian fashion house.

During this season’s Milan Fashion Week, one of the most talked-about presentations came from Gucci, which unveiled its Fall/Winter 2026/2027 collection under the direction of its newly appointed creative leader, Demna. The show marked a pivotal moment for the iconic Italian label, as it represented the first runway collection from the Georgian designer since he stepped into the role last year.

For a house that has shaped global fashion for more than a century, the moment carried significant weight. Founded in Florence in 1921 by Guccio Gucci, the brand is now undergoing a major creative refresh led by its parent group, Kering. The move comes at a time when the company is seeking to reignite excitement around its flagship label following a period of slowing growth and declining sales.

Demna’s debut collection, titled “Gucci Primavera,” introduced a new visual narrative for the brand while still acknowledging its heritage. The runway setting itself was designed to reflect that balance. Models walked through a dramatic environment surrounded by towering marble steps crowned with replicas of classical sculptures. The staging subtly referenced the grandeur of the Uffizi Gallery, an homage to Florence, the birthplace of the Gucci legacy.

The show featured 83 looks that blended womenswear and menswear, illustrating Demna’s intention to create a broad and diverse fashion universe. The collection presented a mix of silhouettes and stylistic directions, suggesting a desire to connect with different audiences while redefining the house’s contemporary identity.

In statements shared with the press, Demna described his vision for Gucci as softer and more emotionally driven than some of his previous work.

“In general I intend for Gucci to become lighter, softer, more refined, more elaborate, more emotional—even senseless sometimes,” the designer wrote in a letter circulated online and in several publications. “I don’t want it to be intellectual.”

The message suggested a shift in tone from the often conceptual approach associated with his earlier projects. Instead, the Fall/Winter collection emphasized glamour, sensuality, and pieces designed to resonate with everyday luxury consumers.

Demna also emphasized the importance of blending tradition with innovation. “My vision of Gucci is about the coexistence of heritage and fashion,” he explained. “Here they are not opposites—they are lovers.”

That philosophy was visible throughout the collection. Women’s looks included low-waisted leggings, seamless mini dresses, and sharp miniskirts styled with stockings adorned with the brand’s signature double-G monogram. Several outfits incorporated faux-fur outerwear or bomber jackets, creating a contrast between sleek silhouettes and voluminous textures. Stiletto heels added a glamorous finishing touch, reinforcing the collection’s polished aesthetic.

Eveningwear also played a major role in the lineup. Sparkling gowns and fluid silhouettes captured the attention of the audience as they reflected the light along the runway, highlighting Gucci’s longstanding reputation for dramatic red-carpet fashion.

Menswear followed a slightly different direction, leaning toward body-conscious tailoring and contemporary streetwear influences. Models appeared in tight tops that emphasized muscular shapes, layered with biker jackets or paired with oversized leather shoes in striking shades of red or white. Several carried Gucci’s signature cross-body belt bags, a popular accessory that has become part of the brand’s modern identity.

One of the most memorable moments of the show came during the finale, when supermodel Kate Moss closed the runway. She appeared in a shimmering black evening gown featuring an open back, revealing a thong embroidered with the iconic golden double-G logo. The daring detail sparked immediate conversation among fashion insiders and added an element of playful provocation to the presentation.

Fashion commentators quickly noted that parts of the collection seemed to echo the glamorous aesthetic associated with Tom Ford, who famously revitalized Gucci in the 1990s. Elements such as smoky eye makeup, silk shirts, and glossy fabrics appeared to reference that influential era.

According to Gaya Guiragossian, the connection was hard to miss.

“Demna’s debut at Gucci is the most scrutinized show of this season,” she observed. “The collection clearly nods to the Tom Ford years of the 1990s, with its glamorous styling and shiny materials.”

For longtime admirers of the brand, those references may signal an effort to reconnect with a period when Gucci was one of the most influential names in global fashion.

The timing of this new creative direction is particularly significant. Gucci has faced a difficult period in recent years, with sales reportedly dropping sharply in 2025. More broadly, the luxury sector has been navigating a slowdown following the surge in spending that followed the pandemic.

Research from consulting firm Bain & Company suggests that the luxury market has lost around 50 million customers in recent years as consumers become more selective and increasingly sensitive to high prices.

For Kering, revitalizing Gucci is therefore a top priority. The group appointed Luca de Meo last year to lead a strategic turnaround aimed at restoring momentum to the brand.

Speaking after the show, De Meo highlighted the importance of sending a clear signal that the company is moving quickly to reshape Gucci’s future.

“It was important to give a sign of speed and dynamism,” he said, adding that he believes the brand is now heading “in the right direction.”

Demna’s appointment as creative director was widely viewed as a bold choice. Known for his provocative ideas and unconventional designs, the Georgian designer has built a reputation for pushing boundaries within the fashion industry.

During his decade at Balenciaga, he introduced viral products such as the Triple S sneaker, helping redefine how luxury fashion interacts with streetwear culture. Those creations resonated strongly with younger audiences and generated significant commercial success.

However, his career has also faced controversy. A Balenciaga advertising campaign in 2022 triggered global backlash after it was accused of featuring inappropriate imagery involving children. Both the brand and the designer later issued public apologies.

Despite these challenges, many industry observers believe Demna’s ability to generate attention and cultural conversation is precisely why Kering selected him to lead Gucci’s next phase.

Some pieces from the Fall/Winter 2026/2027 collection are already expected to appear in select boutiques and online stores, with a wider global release scheduled for July 2026. The accelerated timeline reflects the company’s effort to maintain momentum and keep the brand firmly in the spotlight.

For now, the fashion industry will be watching closely. Demna’s debut runway show marks the beginning of a new chapter for Gucci—one that aims to combine the house’s rich heritage with a contemporary and emotionally driven creative vision.

Whether this transformation will successfully reignite the brand’s global appeal remains to be seen. But after one of the most anticipated shows of the season, one thing is certain: Gucci has officially entered a new era.